Two Weeks of Harmony in Japan
This past Christmas holiday I got to go to Japan for two weeks. I traveled alone, and only had the first half of the trip mapped out. The Japanese always struck me as being uniquely harmonious people, and so I have for a long time dreamed of going to experience their culture and customs. My goal in writing this is to give you some ideas for your trip, with a heavy focus on the food, what to see and do, and how you can enjoy this most fascinating country on a relatively affordable budget—if you should choose.
Feel free to bounce around the blog, just as I did on the trip—visiting a total of 5 cities.
Day 1.
My trip began with a real treat—and by far the least-budget conscious part of it—by checking into the latest Four Seasons in a newer part of Tokyo, a bustling metropolitan area called Otemachi (mostly known as a business district to locals). The hotel overlooks the impressive Imperial Palace grounds, and was only a short walk from Tokyo Station. After I settled into my room on the 36th floor, I took in the most incredible view of the glittering lights of Tokyo Tower.
I discovered one of the things I enjoyed most about Japan was the urban landscape. Except for a few old masonry buildings, Tokyo was mostly built within the last 50 years. After being pummeled at the end of a war, it was rebuilt and modernized—the economy flourished and Tokyo hasn’t slowed down development since. The stunning, thoughtful design that goes into every detail of this city—it exudes craftsmanship of the most attentive kind. Skyscrapers accented with natural stone. Or warm wood details used in an atrium. Everything from the angle of a building, to its unique materials, gave way to the careful aesthetic decisions that went into each building I saw. At times, this concrete jungle felt more like I was walking around in the middle of a gorgeous work of art.
My first full day gave me time to explore Tokyo with a friend (and local). First, an overview of the expansive Tokyo subway system. Thanks to the care the Japanese put into their public spaces, once again I felt more like I was in a modern art museum, than a subway tunnel in a big city. The metro system was like an entire underground city unto itself, with multiple lines running, shops, cafes, and amazing little restaurants between each station. The people on the trains spoke quietly and respectfully to one another—no cell phones, no loud music playing—and even on a train filled to the brim with passengers, everything just hummed along peacefully. As I exited the train, I noticed that people in Japan walked on the left side of the stairs—and they do not deviate from that. On escalators or stairs, you stick to the correct side. And people rarely rush ahead of someone slower in front of them. The respect, order, and organization was marvelous to see.
Next up: an early lunch of ramen, near to the higher end Ginza neighborhood, at a spot called Hashigo. A small restaurant, with only counter seating (like so many restaurants), Hashigo had about a 20 minute line outside. After we waited patiently, we sat at a bar with maybe 20 people, all slurping down their famous hot noodles (that's the one thing they publicly make noise with). After the quiet subway ride, this was the kind of wonderful juxtaposition that a Westerner might not be prepared for. The slurping I thought was just fantastic! And so was the meal. Fresh, thick ramen broth and noodles (slurp worthy for sure), with steaming sides of plump dumplings and gyoza—I knew Japan was going to live up to its reputation for incredible food.
The rest of the day was filled out with a visit to the exhibit by the Team Lab/Planet artist group, known throughout Asia. They specialize in immersive water exhibits. We spent a few hours immersed in shallow water and intertwined in dazzling lights and fabrics. Later we took the U line, an above ground subway, which was a fantastic way to see more of the city. For dinner, we had a reservation at a Tempura spot called Azabu Yokota, situated on the top floor of a high-rise building. Sat at the bar for an omakase or “chef’s choice” experience, where he laid out courses of the most delicately battered vegetables and fish—which were just incredible.
Mushroom and white fish tempura
Day 2.
Started the day with a walk through of the Kitanomarukoen Garden that's across from Imperial Palace. The Palace seems to have limited days and hours, so if you can’t line that up right, then this garden/park is a lovely place to wander around. The whole area was once the castle of the 17th Century Shoganite Tokugawa who reigned at the beginning of the Edo period—one of unity and progress. I used the Shimuzu gate at the entrance of the gardens (Palace side). I did learn, if you can, exit at the Tokugawa gate (you are just five minutes walk to the subway station Z line). Four metro stops there, I found myself in a really cool neighborhood called, Omote-Sando
Omote-Sando is a high-end, modern, walk-able shopping/neighborhood district much like Rodeo Drive and Abbott Kinney if rolled into one! The likes of Prada and Issey Miyake stores—with the most incredible architecture to boot.
I found a great soba spot on one of the side streets, and picked up a few beautiful artesian tea cups to bring home. You don't want miss out on eating soba. Served both hot or cold, it is often enjoyed with a bonito broth. A tawny brown color, its made from the dried flakes of a tuna-type fish called Katsuo. When that is mixed with sea kelp its makes Dashi. I felt it didn’t really have any very “fishy" flavor, (it was more oniony to me). Additional side note: If you’re hungrier, pair with some tempura. If it's winter grab some hot soba or barley tea. The meal was rich and incredibly nutritious.
Here is the Nezu Art Museum (which I missed…because like a lot of other museums in Japan…it is closed on Mondays). But what a wonderful area to walk around! Here Tokyo’s most fashionable people are out and about. (Keep in mind this area is next to one of the most popular sites in Tokyo, the Meiji Shrine.)
In the afternoon I visited our (newly opened!) Sotheby’s List office in Ginza. There I learned that the Japanese real estate market has been flat lately, but now there’s an influx of foreign buyers—mostly from China. After that I saw the Meiji Shinto shrine, built to honor The Emperor Meiji. It's imported trees created a majestic little forest right in the middle of a city. As I approached the shrine, I noticed a wall of sake barrels facing more “Western world” red wine oak barrels. This is a telling symbol of the Meiji era, as it represents the Emperor’s opening of Japan to trade and business with the west—and his reported love of European wine.
After that it was a short train ride to see the world’s busiest crosswalk: Shibuya—which was timed perfectly at the end of the workday! Next came Roppongi, an area with hundreds and hundreds of little bars in basements or small office buildings with at times tiny, very low, entryways. After an inexpensive Japanese-style “happy hour” meal of Yakitori, I found a spot called Roppongi Wine Bar. It had a dark, intimate, elegant vibe on the second floor of a building (very common, because most of Japan is impressively urban and built vertically). Since I was feeling more comfortable, this was the point in the trip when I started to toss some of my pre-planning out the window. I found it a bit more fun to pop into a place randomly and pick my meals on the fly—usually based on the pictures or displays of food featured in the windows. With so many dense little streets, there are often a half-dozen absolutely amazing spots on one single block!
Day 3.
After a quick session in the fitness center (a great way to balance out jet lag), I went out for a museum day. It was only a few stops to Nezha Station, and a 15 minute walk to Ueno. This is where most of the well-known museums are located in Tokyo. Via Nezha I walked through a lovely neighborhood that attracted many creatives—it was anchored by the Tokyo University of Design and Musical Arts. First on my list was the Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum. The building itself was very cool. It was a well-preserved Mid-Century in brick. It felt like a well-maintained time capsule of chic 70s decor inside. After enjoying an exhibit filled with 400-year-old books, I headed across the street to the grand Tokyo National Museum. It was impressive. Galleries of old swords (some dating back to the 6th century), samurai suits of armor, Buddha statues, kimonos, and photographs—this place made for a rich overview of Japan’s past. Note: if you ever go…time it so you exit as the museum is closing up for the day. The way the building looks—all lit up at night—is well worth it. (And, of course, don't miss the gift shop—there are some unique things there you wouldn’t find anywhere else.)
In Japan the best restaurants are often made for counter seating only. Just like in the film, Hero Dreams of Sushi, a prospective diner will have a specific time slot for how long they will take up valuable real estate at the bar. That night, for dinner, my friend Midori brought me to a Yakitori house that was just like that.
The interior—floor to ceiling—was entirely clad in an exquisite blond wood. Inside it was very quiet, reverent almost. I was greeted by a group of servers, all bowing to me as I entered. The chefs—precise and revered—were right in front of me, just behind the bar. A woman took my coat and hung it near the door—as if I were a guest in her home. This restaurant made me feel nothing but warmth, like I was in a friend’s dining room, rather than thousands of miles from home.
The meal started out with the chef putting a massive bottle of sake on the bar. It was served in a shallow ramekin made of lacquered wood. (Later on in the meal I learned how fancy it actually was—mostly because when I tried ordering a serving the chef insisted I shouldn’t. It was because of the very high price tag.) Now, I’ve started enjoying sake occasionally the last couple years, and this was by far the most balanced and bright sake I’ve ever had. Our meal was again a “Chef’s choice”, with the chef running down a checklist of predetermined items for everyone in the house that night. The appetizer was an oyster soup and a bowl of savory egg custard with miso that was to die for. Most of the rest was skewered meat (yakitori) using a variety of chicken including: meatballs, a ribbon of perfectly salted and grilled chicken skins, and crunchy knee cartilage.
Day 5.
I made it to Kyoto! After checking into Ryokan Motonago, I had an evening walk near a few quaint canals. Ryokan’s are traditional Japanese style inns, and Motonago was well located near the Yasaka Jinja shrine. This area is a good central place to experience Gion, a traditional part of Kyoto, and the Geisha quarters. Nothing to do with sex work, Geishas are trained in “flower”-like elegance and artistic expression and are hired to entertain or host. Geishas may have dinner with a client, serve tea, or play a drinking game.
Some of the key sites in Kyoto include:
—Chion-in is a temple with the largest Tori-style entry in all of Asia. There is a beautiful garden, and an upper terrace with a huge ancient bell.
—Walked through Gion and saw a few Geisha's going about daily routines.
—Kinkaku-Ji Temple, aka The Golden Pavilion. It is spectacular. These temples and their surrounding zen gardens came to be in the Edo period starting at about 1600, a period known for peace and creating beautiful things. After an entire day of clouds, when we passed through the garden, the sun finally broke through, and we got fully swept up in awe of this shimmering, ancient building surrounded by a garden lake. Truly, a fantasy-like setting.
—Arashiyama. A popular bamboo forest. It’s easy to enter through Tenryu-Ji Temple, so we coupled it with checking out the temple’s Zen Garden. The bamboo forest is no more than the size of a football field, and it is a short, pristine stop.
For dinner I found Misono, what is known as the first Japanese Teppanyaki restaurant, founded in 1945 in Kobe. And wow, the taste blew me away. I ordered one Kobe strip, and one of the more marbled Wagyu strips. It was a category A5—which measures the amount of marbling. Accompanied by slivers of garlic and veggies, everything was served by a veteran head chef named, Yoshimoto (he had massive hands, and worked his magic on the dining-table-sized steel skillet in front of us). FYI, if you’re vegetarian and you think just having the vegetables is safe…it’s all cooked in steak fat oil--yum!
Day 6.
This day was all about the mountains. From the Gion area its five stops and a train ride to the base of Mt. Fushimi-enari. This mountain is famous for the 1,000 Toris, and there are clusters of shrines all along the trail. It took me about two hours to reach the top of the mountain and to go back to the bottom. Just off the trail, about 15 minutes from the main shrine, at the base, look for the fork in the road that turns right. That path leads to an incredible bamboo forest, and this one is five times the size of the more well-known Arashiyama.
Here is what the turnoff looks like.
Day 7.
Osaka was next. A Japanese client and friend of mine recommended I stop in and experience a bar called Rock Rock. This popular spot is where big bands on tour often come by to drink after their shows. So knowing that was the only thing I had planned for Osaka that night, enjoyed a full Japanese style breakfast at the Ryokan, in a Kimono, seated on their tatami mat floors.
It's an hour long trip from to Kyoto to Osaka by subway and train. I spent most of the ride chatting with a young Italian who'd come to Kyoto to climb Fushimi-enari. Later that day I checked into a simple hotel, a reasonable walk to the bar. I’d planned a day hike through the city to see Osaka Castle, and the first part of this plan was to search for a good lunch…but there was no searching needed. When I exited the hotel, I was hit by a fragrant smell of food. Directly in front of me was a restaurant advertising curries. (Personally, I didn’t know the Japanese did curries, but it turns out they do.) The restaurant was called Nikki, and I highly recommend it. The minced chicken and lamb curry dish I had was fantastic.
Once fully fueled up, it was a 45 minute walk to reach the castle. The castle is flanked by moats and surrounded by modern office buildings and—fittingly—the Osaka police headquarters. Wasn’t able to go inside the grounds (closing time), so instead focused on the fortress-like walls surrounding the compound. At 50 yards tall these beauties were designed and by built by Hideyoshi, one of the great shogun unifiers of Japan.
Then it was time for Rock Rock bar!
At Rock Rock I drank Guinness and sake and had a freaking ball. I got to meet the bar’s owner, Seinji. And let me tell you, this man must have worked hard during his 26 year run at Rock Rock—building relationships with music managers and bands—because his little third floor bar was and still is a mecca for major rock stars who are touring or visiting Japan as well as big local Japanese acts. Hundreds of Polaroids cover the walls. There are snapshots of everyone from Stephen Taylor, to Jeff Beck, Incubus, Smashing Pumpkins, to a very wasted looking Liam Gallagher, to White Snake and many more—these candid, cool, and sometimes hilarious pics were all over the place! The best part of the night was meeting a Rock Rock regular who was celebrating his birthday. This jovial guy was probably one of the biggest characters I’ve ever met in my life. He was a former war correspondent turned radio engineer dressed in a black knee-length sweater and chunky black combat boots. He carried with him, at all times, a Hello Kitty puppet named Miffy. And even though he was turning 55 that night, he would frequently announce to the room that his puppet Miffy was 1) his wife and 2) that she was a very young 67. Rock Rock bar absolutely lived up to the hype my friend Kimi told me about!
Day 8.
Due to the ease of hoping on a fast commuter train or “bullet train”—called a Shinkansen—you can make fun last minute decisions on where you want to go in Japan. I found the bullet trains to be similar to trains in Europe—except these were lighting fast! So, with no further itinerary past last night in Osaka, that morning I decided to head west and visit Hiroshima. In less than two hours, I checked into a very comfortable hotel room that was just a five minute walk from the main Hiroshima station. My room, just about 120 sq ft, was very smartly designed, and cost around $60 USD.
Side note: If you check out my Instagram highlight "Travel" tab, there’s a tour of this brilliantly tiny room I stayed in!
Later that day on the urging of another solo traveler I had been tagging along with, we took in Itsukushima—an island northwest of Hiroshima Bay. This island’s must-see is an Insta-worthy floating shrine—it is one of Japan’s oldest shrines. This was a nice way to take in history while experiencing what Japanese topography and landscape really are. Archipelagic coastal communities, where here, they steeply tumble from mountain top into the sea. Definitely a nice change from the hustle of the city. Itsukushima had many food stalls to choose from for a quick lunch—with plenty of them offering fresh or fried oysters, and of course, good coffee to help keep you warm.
Day 9.
A Monday morning after Christmas, Hiroshima’s medium size felt more like a real Japanese city. Like Thailand, Japan is really into coffee. I ignored the Starbucks chains, which are very popular here, and sought out small coffee shops hoping to find more interesting brews. After booking some upcoming accommodations, I ordered coffee and a chocolate apricot cake with eggs and toast. It was so simple and so divine.
With no space for more than a few customers at once and it being early there weren't many people in the shop, so I chatted up the owner—a travel-junkie too. I asked her how Hiroshima felt about the city’s past and the bombing and if it impacted their daily lives. As if on cue, a school teacher was her next customer, and she joined our chat and kindly filled me in on some of the history of Hiroshima. After the teacher left the owner reflected on her parents and their philosophy about the bombing—After the bomb and all the devastation, they had nothing. And so, to make up for that, you put your head down and focus on doing the very best you can to get back on track. To them, each day was about hard work and honoring the past.
Hiroshima Memorial Park Museum had so many displays of interesting photos, interviews, poems, and clothing to see and read about (I was glad I paid the few dollars for the audio device—I needed it). Similar to the Ground Zero Memorial in Manhattan, this museum provides touching, emotional, and very personal re-tellings of the moments after the A Bomb (aka: Little Boy) was dropped. Seeing the half remnants of the Dome building, and its skeletal masonry that was just yards from the focal point, made the event seem so recent. I held back tears a few times—it was incredibly powerful to walk through that space.
Later on, I got my bags from the hotel and headed to Hiroshima Station to get a bullet train to Yokohama. I’d also purchased a traditional boxed lunch for the ride, and I was really excited to try it. It was very simple: soy glazed white fish over rice—smartly sealed and packaged—of course. All in all, it was a delicious meal while en route to Hakone for a few days in the mountains!
*Quick note on the bullet trains. They are very fast trains called the Shinkansen, and they travel between all the major cities in Japan. They seem to run every hour or more, and I didn’t need to book seats ahead of time, as I always found spots open in the non-reserved cars. The trains are not fancy, as they are commuters and the basic coach is quiet and peaceful. My coach seats all reclined, felt super spacious, and had outlets for charging phones (FYI, no converters are needed for your North American electronics).
Day 10.
I arrived in the mountain region of Hakone by nightfall to go to a traditional outdoor Japanese Onsen (aka a Japanese spa). I fell asleep almost immediately. The next morning, I woke up and watched the sunrise while relaxing in an outdoor wooden tub on the rooftop of the onsen. Now feeling fully refreshed, under the first light of the morning sun, I felt totally ready to climb a mountain.
Using Google Maps, I found a trail for a hike with a solid view of Mt. Fuji. According to Maps, the Mt. Myojogatake Trail was just a short ride away by taxi. I started climbing at 10am. The entire hike took around six hours. Even though the Myojogatake peak was still pretty far from Mt. Fuji (it’s not open in winter), it was a good spot to turn around. There are benches if you need to rest…and of course…just beyond the benches was an amazing view of Mt. Fuji.
Back at the inn, the owner shared his own brew of sake with me, and served it in a small can. I downed it and recuperated for about an hour in a warm outdoor bath. By then I was famished…but without many options for dinner. Luckily, the owner hooked me up with a great place to eat! He told me about a small restaurant perched on a cliff in the mountains. The food was phenomenal: a soft tofu starter (complimentary), hot miso, fish, sake, and beer. That night I slept well on the tatami floor—with plenty of heavy bedding—and drifted off to the sound of the rushing river below…
Day 12.
Still stiff from the hike, I started my morning back in the hot springs before heading out of Hakone. Then I made my way to a smaller city (Odawara), before getting a bullet train back to Tokyo. There I walked to an Italian restaurant called Amoroso. They had outstanding flatbreads (this was a recommendation by the manager from last night's dinner). Afterwards, I passed a nice grocery store, hurried inside, and stocked up on loose leaf green tea and tons of high-quality Japanese matcha to take back home.
Day 14.
Back in Tokyo I lucked out on Google Maps. There was a modest hotel a few blocks from the Four Seasons and the Palace Hotel—so I booked it. It was a comfortable, clean, small room for around $75/night. The 15th floor view was excellent—mostly of a beautiful river and a well-designed, shockingly quiet expressway—because, yes, somehow, even the traffic was just peacefully hums along in Japan.
My last two days were spent at the Four Seasons Virtu bar, shopping in the Ginza area, and of course, exploring more bars and restaurants. Quick tip—you don't need to stay in expensive 5-star hotels when traveling. My modest/reasonable hotel was walking distance to many very luxe, high-end hotels. These gorgeous, luxury Japanese hotels often have bars open to the public. It’s really wonderful after a long day of walking to sit down and enjoy some sake and the meticulous, breath-taking design of some of these hotels. (I met a few friendly bartenders—a Brit and another American, from San Fran, and they both gave me a list of the very best bars to checkout in the area.)
On the shopping front, I got some great wardrobe updates at Uniqlo. I searched for other similar Japanese brands and found a fantastic sweater from a brand called Nano Universe. But the real treat of the day was getting escorted around by my Japanese friend Eiko, and seeking out a top brands for Japanese blue jeans.
If you didn't know, Japan has retained the artisan way of manufacturing jeans. This craftsman trade is based out of Okayama. So in the boutique-laden neighborhood of Oayama, next to Omote-Sando (note: this area is next to the Meiji Shrine, so you can hit both in one stop), we ended up at the “Japan Blue Jeans” shop. Now, I love a good pair of jeans. The jeans I tried on were offered in 6 different degrees of stiffness. I prefer structure in a jean, so I went one level down from the stiffest. (FYI, add an inch to the waist size you normally wear back in US.) They felt amazing when I tried them on. And at $15,000 JPY—these artisan jeans only cost me about $115 USD.
For gifts to take back home I settled on an office supply shop called Itoya. It took up 9 floors and had its own department store. It had the most amazing stationary I’d ever seen. Notebooks, pads, pens, stationary, cards, folders, tote bags galore. A paradise for anyone that loves eye-catching cards and stationary.
On my last day I finally got to walk by the main gate at the Palace! The main entrance is walkable and leads into the massive grounds (where the royalty of Japan still resides). A bridge, called the Nijubashi bridge—meaning double—was originally built as two wooden bridges in the 1600s, but it was replaced in the 1960s with one beautiful iron bridge.
Look for second layer of lights posts, and see the iron bridge hidden in background.
A true highlight of my trip came on the very last night. I randomly crossed paths with two close friends from America! My friends and long-time mentors in the real estate industry: Michael and James. It's funny how being away from what we know can make a trip special—but–seeing familiar faces from back home still feels great! Michael and James invited me to dine with them at the stunning Palace Hotel. This French/Japanese fusion dining experience is maybe six floors up from the street—or should I say moat—yes, the hotel sits on a corner with its very own moat! How cool, right? I was thrilled to join them.
At dinner, we were served food and wine in an extravagant seven course meal. Michael told us he’d been craving this kind of experience after they’d just left India—where they also shared some incredible food with friends. We swapped travel stories all night and laughed and ate way too much wonderful food…and I’ll admit…after hearing about India…I opened my mind to the idea of maybe planning a trip (Thanks James and Michael!)
Day 15.
December 31st. New Year’s Eve. My last night in Japan—and the last night of 2022! I made plans with Midori and so knew we were in store for one last exceptional meal. Tonkatsu was what she managed a reservation for. Again, like the tempura and yakitori restaurants, it was exclusively counter seating; but this time we were going to be eating breaded pork cutlets (aka Tonkatsu). This famous pork dish was all this restaurant served. Staying true to Japanese culture—where they take any profession very seriously and become masters in their trade/craft—this place was no exception to Japan’s respect for craftsmanship, specialization, and delicious food.
The menu, which is printed weekly, had four columns. In each column a different pork breed was listed, with information on the farms where they were raised. For our meal, we enjoyed a combo plate of two different types. A one inch thick loin piece (less marble), and a very tender marbled strip of pork. Each slice was utter heaven—the marbled white meat dissolved in your mouth almost instantly. Each cut included corresponding salts to go with it, and featured a pairing of mustard and shaved cabbage. For me, this meal was definitely a favorite. After a few samples of different sakes, we were ready to seek out a few bars. We wandered through the streets of Japan and ended the trip the way it began: taking in a beautiful view of the city on a hotel rooftop, sipping sparkling sake, filled with nothing but gratitude.
I loved visiting Japan and had an absolute blast. Tokyo is a vast, magnificent city that I can best describe as dense—yet detailed. Everything from the food, to the architecture, to the smallest, seemingly insignificant urban detail, they all seemed to work together in harmony (even with 14 million people running around—oops walking…no running please). And I can’t wait to plan my second trip to this incredible country.
For my photos -
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10wzu-Yxl8Y64GPR9RWhbwto5V21YDsRH?usp=sharing