16 Days Through Central America and Mexico City
Flying overnight proved not to be so bad. Nicaragua lacks direct flights, so after departing LAX at 1:00 am, and Central America mainly being three hours ahead, we arrived at Panama City airport at 10:00 am. It's been maybe 20 years since I flew through there, but it is no surprise the airport is modern, and we found a bright open cafe and enjoyed tasty omelets for breakfast with the lovely coffee that Central America is known for. A short flight to Managua we arrived at 1:00 pm, and connected with our surf camp shuttle driver who would essentially drive us up 2/3 of the country to the north. The drive was long, with a mix of two lane kind of expressways and bumpy neighborhood streets, which the driver took to avoid traffic. It seemed that for half the time he was riding the car in front of our ass, as flipped off and gave stink eyes and acted like he was in a video game contest with how long it would take to get us there. But still, a sweet young man who showed us an amazing grill place for lunch right on Lake Managua. We arrived unscathed at Amaru in time for a late supper with the other guests and a chance to meet the staff with whom we would spend the next four nights.
This was the first night on a two-week plus trip to Central America. We would pass through three countries—if including that meal in Panama—plus a fourth if you would give me the liberty of grouping in Mexico. What made it so fulfilling was that the trip would have different facets. Beginning at a beach-focused surf/yoga retreat in very warm Nicaragua, our first leg would be more health and wellness-focused. Followed up by time in Costa Rica where my brother and mom live and got to play tennis and dine in high rises overlooking San Jose's central valley. And finally, the third and final chapter was Mexico City—a world into itself that offered a cultural expose. (For that reason, though I include those five days as part of this blog, I separately published CDMX as its own blog - here.) By sharing, the hope is you may glean some ideas for your next trip. I write about the transfers and how it was driving—well in fact—walking over the border when leaving Nicaragua (where a dollar goes the farthest), what shoes to bring, and the best restaurants to try. Plus, woven in is some history and a tad of political commentary. So on we go, to our first full day in northern Nicaragua.
Day 1 (our first full day) -
With no better way to shake off the stiffness from a nearly 23-hour journey, I was up early and in the surf by 7 am. Although surf/yoga resorts lack luxury, what you get is showing up to a foreign country with no clue on where or how to access the breaks, and getting ushered into the surf. I was assigned a guide named Christian, so with no time lost, he got me where I needed to be to get waves immediately. This is the way to go if you have under a week and are in a foreign country. Amaru is outside of a town called Chinandega. There is a gringo landlord who owns the property with a cliffside colonial-looking house off at the point and then an operator who runs the hotel. His name is Gerritt, and he seems almost single-handedly responsible for making Amaru such a welcoming and enjoyable stay. Right from the first WhatsApp inquiries I sent over the past summer, the passion and dedication he has as a host cannot be provided by an employee at some large brand-name resort. The food was healthy, fresh, and curated by the resident cook couple Max and Paola (Brit/Brazilian). With more surf guides, teachers, cooks, and staff necessary for our first two days being just us and another couple, I couldn't help but feel a bit spoiled. For that reason, I had to make a point of being swift to retrieve my board myself and make an effort to help get it loaded up on the Toyota 4 Runner roof rack. Or pitch in to clear dishes after our family-style meals.
The first surf session was at a break called Nahualapa. A beach break, which most are here. Like the high 80s air temp, the water felt on par with that. And boy, is it easier to paddle with no wetsuit on. This first-day itinerary of breakfast after surfing, then chill, followed by a mid-day yoga class in the outdoor Jalapa, followed by another afternoon activity, was a daily routine that I quickly got used to. A highlight moment for me was in the afternoon on that first full day when word got out that the "The Boom", Nicaragua’s legendary break, was working.
Famous for its barreling "A-Frames," I jumped in the surf rig as the gang was headed out to see how the surf was. I wasn’t sure if I would paddle out, but was excited just to see it. And see it with next to no one else out, I did. It was only our gang and maybe two other guys. I just don't surf much these days, and was on a larger, more cumbersome mid-length board. But I couldn’t at least give it a go. The wind was blowing offshore, which helps make the waves stand up. On a 6’,10” board, it was tough getting out past the breakers. After an extended struggle, unable to duck dive the board under the white water and constantly being pushed back to shore, I finally made it out. Exhausted by that point, I knew that any wrong positioning or failed take-off would end my session. But then, after not waiting as long as I probably should have, it happened. I saw a wave building, and its peak was coming right to me. I paddled feverishly and popped up. After the drop, I made a good bottom turn and another top turn, followed by a series of pumps up and down. Boy did that feel good. One of my best waves ever. Plus, it didn’t hurt that most of the Amaru gang saw it, so it did get me a little cred, and having dinner with everyone that night felt that much better.
Day Two -
Up at dawn this morning, we drove maybe 20 minutes to a break called Jiquillilo. We were able to park at the beach house of friends of our guides. Again, the perk of being at a camp and having this kind of access was much appreciated. Walking right from their property onto the white sand, one of the guides, Felipe, set up a tripod to film, and with the footage, the guides would give us some pointers that night when re-watching. These beaches are remote. Super tropical, where the rainforest canopy collapses as the beaches begin. Again, no one else was out but one other guy. Expended all my energy and got a handful of waves, which for me is a fine day out in the water—a great breakfast, chilled, followed by our near-private outdoor yoga class under the Jalapa. We were starting to get comfy in this routine. Deanna in fact that morning jumped on them offering surf lessons to all levels, and went out, proving she had what it would take to become a competent surfer.
For the afternoon, the group driven by Gerritt's enthusiasm, was going in for a Temazcal. This is a sweat lodge led by a spiritual leader, which they intersperse with cold plunges. The sound of it was like a doctor's orders. This young Shaman was handed down the practice from his mom. The family in the construction business has done quite well. As we rolled up, we were impressed by the grounds, with a main house and the Temazcal pavilion made out of new brick with white stucco and heavy steel beams. It was much more sophisticated than my first sweat lodge experience years ago outside of Mexico City, where I was in a tepee. Our group—plus another handful of friendly surfers who would be with us—filled up the square-shaped sauna with its low vaulting ceiling peaking in the center. In the center, was a two-foot-tall tiled square pit. They explained there would be four segments of heat, two of which would be capped by ice baths for up to two minutes each. The Shaman instructed us to breathe deep and slow to withstand the heat. Then the stomach-high wooden barn doors opened, and the first oversized shovel came in, carrying a red-hot volcanic boulder about 1-foot square. Followed by maybe 8 more. After this, they create a heat vapor by pouring a formula of herbs on top of the rocks—many of which come from the property's gardens. The heat was fast, and breathing deep was good advice. Though it would only be for a moment, the heat from vapor felt suffocating a couple of times. The smell was sweet like caramel and vanilla, mixed with green menthol or even lavender tones. After the shaman shared words about cleansing our bodies, and the second ten-minute heat session, I spent two minutes in the ice bath. Not just a cold plunge; as you can see, it was an ice bath.
Day Three-
Yesterday may have been God's day of rest, but it was not for us. Boated out at sunrise with three other surfers to a break called "Trees". This was the first time I had ever been boated out to a break. In California, we drive so long to get to the beach, which is probably why being dropped by a boat to get to a wave felt so cool. Trees is another beach break, and is on an Island. But being that mid-way through our session and visible from our lineup, I saw two people walk across the shore, it gave me the impression that it could have been more of a peninsula. Waves were infrequent and not pitchy enough to always break. But to surf it on our own, and have a volcano standing tall behind the jungle of shoreline trees, made it special.
Following a hardy breakfast, of soft scrambled eggs and papas—in line with every meal here: healthy, generously portioned, and scrumptious—it was soon time for noon deep tissue massage. Long anticipated, this was in the thatched Shala perched on the cliff overlooking the bay. Then was yoga, followed by us taking a long sunset walk out past the “Boom” break admiring heavenly clouds and collecting sea shells as the warm tides concealed our feet.
Day Four -
Off to Ometepe, an island in the south of Nicaragua on the second of two big lakes the country is known for. The plan was to drive in a rented car, which we would have for touring the island, and the following day to get us to the Costa Rica border, where we would change cars. The driving in Nicaragua was very good, but the logistics in getting a car were clunky and made clear that tourism is not their thing—as it more obviously is just next door in CR. Before the trip via WhatsApp, I learned that if we were dropping at another location Dollar Rent A Car wouldn't rent for just one day. But after Gerritt stepped in and got them to quote the three-day minimum to be able to afford to drop off at the border, I realized that was so affordable and the luxury of having our vehicle to make the trip down south through Nicaragua to see Ometepe and cross into Costa Rica, was well worth hiring the car for the three days.
It would be a long day, again driving nearly the length of the country, then followed by ferrying across to the Island. After not being picked up by Dollar Rental at the pre-arranged 8am time, and reverting to plan B, which was to call a taxi to take us to Chinandega and pick up the car at their office, we were finally set to head out. Upgraded I guess to the only vehicle they had on hand, we hit the road in an over-sized white brand new Hyundai soccer mom/dad family van, and we were on our way to the much anticipated and well-hyped-up Ometepe island.
Ometepe is in the middle of the same lake that Granada sits on, the colonial town with beautiful Spanish landmarks that have survived a few pirate attacks, but short on time had to skip (it now being December 23rd, and our goal was to be with my family in San Jose Costa Rica for Christmas Eve). The drive from the north would be about 5 hours. The central two-lane expressway is quite pretty, now seen in the daylight. Trees flank the sides, often creating a canopy over it, which is not paved but is laid and makes for a smooth cement block roadway—like cobblestone but not "cobbly" at all. At the Ferry terminal to get to Ometepe, there are guides who for a couple of dollars, help you buy the ferry ticket, show you where to park your car overnight, and walk you to the dock. These “usher”-type guys are fair and helpful, so do take them up on it. And be sure to have cash (Cordobas or USD). We did not and drove 10 minutes back out to find an ATM.
The medium-sized ferry boat is meager and tattered, maybe best compared to an oversized oil rig dingy. Do not try and get your car on the ferry. They only have room for a handful of vehicles anyway and they get squeezed in. Instead, go as a pedestrian, and enjoy a scooter or taxi for your days on Ometepe. Our guy arranged a scooter for us on the other side, but we abandoned that idea after Deanna had the good sense to realize a 45 min scooter ride on the dark island roads would not be fun tonight, and so we opted for a taxi. We stayed at a super cool property called El Pital, known as a boutique chocolate experience resort, where they do small "tree to bar" production. The rooms are casitas on stilts atop the shoreline of the lake. Being all glass, you only need to peel away the sheer curtain to feel you are literally out on the lake. The vibe is Tulum-like, and the expansive open-concept restaurant cafe with seating across the deck, covered patio couches, and garden tables is super conducive as a catch-all spot for: digital nomad work, dinner as we had upon our late 8:30 pm arrival, or breakfast that we so thoroughly enjoyed the next day.
Day Five (Christmas Eve) -
After arriving in the dark, and being even more disorientated due to the heavy winds, it was magical waking up and finally really seeing where we were. The resort's footpaths lead you around the property to and from your glass-raised-up tree house room. We were just inches from the lake water. Having crashed late, and today was still windy—as lakes can always be—the breezy warm air was invigorating. Here we were, having coffee and an acai bowl back at the cafe, with this amazing view of one of the volcanos.
On par with one of those Rome bus rides that whips you by to glance at the top hits in three hours, we arranged a taxi to get us back to the ferry that morning, but with the plan that along the way he would get us as near as possible to the volcano. Edwin the taxi driver playing tour guide, did a great job at that. He scooped us up at 7:30 am. Me with just a fanny pack and Deanna only her purse, knowing we would be on the island for no more than 12 hours. By 8 am, we were on an hour's walk to climb maybe 1/3 of the way up one of the two volcanos on Ometepe, called Concepcion. Still active, that day it wore a cloud on top, kind of like a Chinese paddy straw number, or what also struck me to be a condom. The last eruption Conception had was in 2011, with no fatalities. Understandably the Nicaraguans love the island, as the hotel manager explained, his move there prompted him to never want to leave. And by our one night there, we learned it is not just the nationals who love it—for at El Pital, the ferry ride back, and on the island roads, all were peppered with tourists, but more the backpacker types.
Although it was a super short stay, we were glad we made it, as Ometepe island is 100% a must-do in Nicaragua. After successfully leaving the rental on the Nica side of the border, we walked across to the Costa Rica side through a town called Puena Blanca. Again, we accepted an offer to be escorted for a tip of a couple of dollars. Otherwise, there just isn't good signage, and even the actual passport check would be easy to miss, as is just a few guards standing on a sidewalk. So it was worth it just to know where to be going and what point next. Across the border, right away when engaging with the Alamo Rental rep in Costa Rica, I felt the level of service and tourism-orientated mindset had a major shift. The roads were much more significant, and all were paved and had billboards for luxury products. Coming out of Nicaragua made Costa Rica appear much more developed than I had ever remembered. But enough of that...It's time to deadhead for San Jose in hopes of making Sean's dinner party.
Outside of San Jose and in the foothill town of Heredia, my brother Sean, who I am super proud of for this last year, he and his Tica wife Eunice bought and renovated a wonderful estate. It was neat to drive up tonight and see it for the first time. Once you're through the gate, the approach to the main house meanders up slightly rolling grounds. It's much cooler than lower down in San Jose, but the views and fresh air are incredible. An equestrian area—one could say it is the Calabasas to Los Angeles. We arrived just as the party was getting going. Sean, Eunice, my mom, Sean's friends visiting from Thailand, and Eunice's kids— whom I had long been overdue to spend the holiday with. Sean was a gracious host, always filling our glasses and opening cold beers for me, and Eunice made the turkey that hit the spot.
Day 7 -
Yesterday, Christmas Day, after checking in late after the party at one of my all-time favorite properties, we slept in and awoke at the Inter Continental Hotel in Escazu. Part of the development that was done by an El Salvadorian group called Robles. It's adjacent to a high-end mall named Multi Plaza, which has all the shopping you may need. Convenient if you are missing something you may want for the beach or going out at night. Deanna and I both found some things at the Spanish shop Massimo Dutti. While on the subject of clothing, I always like to weigh in on what I think is vital when going on a long trip, which is what shoes to bring. I struggled with the footwear for this extended trip, knowing we would be going out some nights, plus needing tennis shoes for a couple of days on the court with Sean. To fit all that and carry my bag, which was not a roller, on the going out shoes, I made a good choice of white Converse high tops. They are stylish enough for going out, and the canvas material made them light and easy to pack and left room for me to bring my go-to New Balance 990s, plus flip flops. None of the hikes were so strenuous that the New Balance weren’t adequate, while they also make for a good museum day or walking neighborhoods city shoe.
Ok, enough on wardrobe and back to Multi Plaza, which the highlight for me is the design. In addition to the hotel being a comfortable medium luxury, is how it is part of this thoughtfully planned community of hotels, offices, and mall that are all centered and accessed off a single roundabout. Robles hired the renowned Barragon disciple Ricardo Legorreta to plan and build. (Much more on them later).
Today we were off to the hot springs. But not Arenal, which you likely have heard of or been to, but a favorite of Sean and Eunice's and near to a town called Fortuna. The springs are accessed and maintained by a Spanish Bungalow style spa resort called El Tucano Thermal Resort & Spa in San Carlos - https://maps.app.goo.gl/VZdZKGSL19yeWLUg7
A natural setting with a pool at the hotel filled from the fissures that the mountain seeps hot water out of. Below is a more natural setting of a rushing river with comfortable spots to lie and be up against the 110-plus temp water that the river walls omit. Afterward, we went to a favorite of theirs for dinner. A family from Verona Italy, runs a pizzeria that's a 15-minute drive called Italinissimo - https://maps.app.goo.gl/GUCkwDEmsnP2Gfst7
Day 8 -
Waking up stiff from driving, I cannot overstate how great having a legitimate hotel gym and spa is. Worth the stay in itself, for as we all know a good workout while traveling is a great way to balance and stay limber. With a 5-hour drive ahead, we reached the first coastal town outside of San Jose called Jaco, and then ten minutes south of there, stopped in Playa Hermosa. Then it was another 2 hours south through pouring rain, as the wet season was running unusually long this year, past Dominical to our destination at El Castillo boutique hotel in an off-the-beaten-path area called Ojachal.
Day 9 -
On Saturday the 28th, we jumped on one of many adventure offerings in the area and signed up for a guided mangrove kayak tour. This light three-hour paddle cruising alongside the banks of veiny tree-rooted mangroves was a great display of fresh and saltwater converging. Boa constrictors (who sleep for two days after a meal!), Ospreys, baby crocodiles, and cranes were easy to see. *Do not forget bug spray and, ideally, a net over the head and upper body, as I wish I had done. At night, we had a great meal at a place called Citrus, where we met the owner, who implements a fusion of Asian/French cuisine. It's located in a small Tulum-esque contemporary plaza, still south of Uvita, and it turned out to be a pleasant surprise to find here in such a remote, seeming southern part of Costa. We had battered and fried egg rolls, calamari, mussels, and beef tartare, accompanied by possibly the best french fries I've ever tasted. Washed down with a treat for a Belgium beer called Delirium Tremens.
Citrus Restuarante - https://maps.app.goo.gl/wVKwb3Jtq3NU2T1Q9
Day 10 -
Off to the national coastal park called Manuel Antonio, we up there early to make a snorkeling tour. But with the rainy season this year running much longer than usual, it had us rained out today, and so we held up mainly reading and resting. Ultimately, Quepos and the Manuel Antonio area were way too “come one come all” for our liking, and I wouldn’t recommend it. This was in comparison to having spent time with my brother in more local spots like the Fortuna waterfall hot springs and then two days in Ojochal, which both felt far less touristy.
Day 11 -
Monday 30th, it was time to head back to the Central Valley of San Jose, where we had late lunch and dinner arrangements. Leaving early for the approximately 3-hour drive, we barely afforded ourselves a visit to a waterfall hike Deanna found on All Trails. It is called Rainmaker and is a bit south of Dominical. A privately owned family ranch nestled into the lower mountains that enjoyed freshwater streams and falls. The way the trails and bridges are maintained was super cool, with single-track suspension bridges made of rope and chain and stone paver-like platforms for steps.
After a quick salt-laden dip in the breakers back at Playa Hermosa near Jaco, we returned to Escazu and our favorite Inter Continental Hotel at Multi Plaza. Dinner tonight was long anticipated at an outstanding boutique hotel called Grano de Oro. It opened in the 90s after a French Canadian couple observed how, although Costa Rica was quickly becoming a great tourist destination, the capital city lacked any true boutique luxury accommodations. Except for them, it remains that way, but what an outcome they have had. It is a must-visit if ever in transit through San Jose. A forgotten Victorian Colonial-era residence that they restored to a remarkable level. Endless walnut-colored wood panels, banisters, saw tooth crown moldings, and bay windows wrap the corner of the building and the dining room.
Restaurante Grano De Oro - https://maps.app.goo.gl/SHAG9YnGBnNYHKPdA
Early to bed, as tomorrow we are off to our final leg of the trip…México City!
Day 1 CDMX -
If you like this five-day segment just on Mexico City, and to reference just on its now, please see it as a stand-alone blog here -
Yesterday, we arrived in Mexico City at midday and checked into a small, simple hotel in the Roma North neighborhood. With a four-night stay in CDMX, the plan was to see as much, eat as much, and explore as many neighborhoods as possible. Knowing we would be out and about mainly, staying in these modest yet charming accommodations was perfect. To organize our time here and best share highlights, I have built this blog segment mainly around the restaurants and the different neighborhoods they are in.
To start as a late lunch, we walked to what is considered the Korea Town of CDMX. To the right of Condesa and above the Roma Norte neighborhood, you will find yourself around here often. It's just on the shoulder of the large Chapultepec Park, which has all the important museums.
Ate at WANWAN SAKABA - https://maps.app.goo.gl/aPhFiE1wYtujAHhr5
There was a short line to sit at the sushi bar counter. There was a wide selection of Japanese cuisine, from Sushi to bento boxes and ramen. I had the Ramen, which I thought was pale in comparison to the top places we go in LA. Deanna had fish, which she enjoyed. With so many other amazing places ahead, you could say we got the worst out of the way.
Rating it out of 5 stars a 3.5
Back to the hotel was a 20-minute walk, a common walking time, it seems when coming in and out of Roma Norte. What is wonderful about CDMX, and I found similar in Tokyo, is that if you walk on any given block, you will likely see a great-looking cafe, bar, or restaurant. Though at times it’s smart to do, you don't have to pre-determine where to eat here. So with Deanna napping and just about 4 hours until midnight, I went out for a pre-countdown beer and bite. After 10 minutes, I stumbled upon a wine bar, where a couple of cooks behind the bar with a small oven were serving up a thin-crust pizza. That, along with a stout beer from Tijuana, I was now ready for the night.
For New Year's, we went to Departamento - https://maps.app.goo.gl/rcUnkp1yuE3MvHMM8
Though described as a laid-back restaurant bar on Maps, it's a three-level club with different DJs on each floor. After a couple of shots of Mezcal next door, the line was gone, and we went straight in and directly to the dance floor. The current music trend in the city seems to be funk. The hipsters in line and on the dance floors had 70's/ 80's attire, and the DJs were dropping super fun, funky disco tracks that were a blast to dance to. The rooftop had a gal DJ, followed up by a sunglass-wearing duo who headlined, and we got to hear their first few tracks before heading out at about 2 am.
Day 2 CDMX -
Unusually quiet Wednesday, January 1st was a neat day to explore this vast city mainly by foot. A city that is starting to feel, in certain parts, to have too many people looking the exact same as us. Around the popular neighborhoods like Roma and Condessa, with an influx of expat nomads who started moving down here during Covid, I noticed the first spray-painted graffiti reading “Gringo Go Home.” These foreigner-rich neighborhoods are getting overrun and losing patience with the locals. I also asked some locals who confirmed the issue. It eats away at affordability and makes it harder for Mexicans to live there themselves.
I always love being in a big city on a holiday. It was so placid. Luckily, the spectacular Museo de Anthrologic was open, so we were happy to go there. But not before Deanna brought me to Mendl’s, a Mexico City take on a Jewish deli - https://maps.app.goo.gl/odHP7Knxe1kR2E3m8
In Condesa and off the Amsterdam circle (a lovely area to walk), this deco-inspired americano space serves friendly portions of deli classics but just made better. It could be the butter and salt ratios or the size of the potato latkes that came as a side dish of four—the neighboring tables' french toast overflowed with banana and Deanna's orange-colored glass cup for the cappuccino and colorful thickly padded table seats, which all added to this place so memorable.
Rating it 5 stars.
Seeing the Anthropology museums is an incredible overview of Mexico's history until the Spanish Inquisition of the early 1500s. You will see an endless collection of pottery, fossils, hieroglyphs, and reconstruction of the nation's rich Aztec past. We did it in three hours but easily could have spent the day. We missed the two art museums in the same Chapultepec Parque (Museo Tamayo Arte Contemporáneo & Museo de Arte Moderno) as were closed for the holiday. Here is also where the Chapultepec Castillo is, which supposedly has a fantastic view across the city.
Museo Nacional De Anthropologia
After a long stroll back to Roma Norte through Condesa, I enjoyed looking at the fantastically patina mid-rise apartment and retail buildings. Wound up eating at a fun food hall experience that we found when tried to go across the street to the Medellín Market. It features a collection of a dozen or so different vendors, but all are ordered from your family-style picnic bench seat through one waiter. It all looked so good so was tough deciding. What was tempting was the Argentine steak and fries or the ceviche. I settled on a local Mexican medley soup filled with five different types of root vegetables and plantains.
After a failed attempt to dine at the ever-popular Rosetta restaurant in Roma because we had the wrong time for our table, and to at least see the place, we settled on a drink in the third-floor bar. Here, not fully hearing the server mention they season the popcorn with ants, I got to expand my palette, one could say. We passed this Taqueria called El Califa for a late-night bite while exploring. Packed and strikingly similar to a US 50's era dinner that would stay open all night, this place was the bomb.
Taqueria El Califa - https://maps.app.goo.gl/XjCJHb83F7zuYsDb7
I would describe the culinary experience in Mexico City as a foodie's wet dream. Its the same I found in Italy or Japan. They serve the same dishes we know, but they are just done better or with a twist. At Califa, and in retrospect, it was the same at the Deli; I realized the dishes are not unheard of; they are dishes we know. But it’s how they prepare, the ingredients, something they add or how the dish is deconstructed, which makes them so much better, nearly unrecognizable, and therefore hard to compare.
Another 5 out of 5.
Day Three CDMX -
Today we began with Yoga at a modern-looking studio that offers one week for about 600 pesos (USD 30). After a couple of days of walking the city and eating, this first class we had in the morning helped refresh the bodies. Good thing as today would be another day canvassing on foot. We began at the must-see Palacio de Bella Artes, an Italian architect who designed an art deco masterpiece with this theater and gallery hall that is open for tours. I would wager there is no better example of Deco design in the world. Starting in 1904, the construction was halted by the Mexican Revolution and the building was not completed until 1934.
Palacio Bella de Artes
Having skipped breakfast, by lunchtime, we were more than ready for the much-anticipated meal at Entremar - https://maps.app.goo.gl/zWZsLmunL8NUaa656?g_st=ic
One of two sister restaurants with similar names (Contremar being the other), Entremar is located in Polanco and has a second level that opens onto a terrace. From the minimal, mid-century, slightly tropical-inspired white interior design to the friendly wait staff all smartly dressed, this place is so cool on so many levels. We had a cucumber and tomato salad, ahi tuna tostadas, and a grilled whole fish seasoned two ways—a fresh cilantro-type green rub and a red adobo. After the mains, they pass by with a tray displaying desserts, including a sculpture-looking all-white strawberry meringue.
On all fronts a 5
In the afternoon, we walked the higher-end end and very cosmopolitan neighborhood that Polanco is. Beautiful stores from luxury couture to casual streetwear, fashion abounds. For affordable home goods there is a Mexican version of IKEA called GAIA, where we were trying to find placemats. (In the end found that Casa Ideas or The Home Store had a better and wider selection.)
Day Four CDMX -
Though this blog is centered around the food and dining experiences, a great way to learn about Mexico is by looking closely at its most famed modern architect and my favorite of all time, Luis Barragan. Barragan created what became a signature in Mexican design with large blocky shapes with massive openings, discreet down lighting, and bold pastel colors. Deanna being a super guide found a VW Beetle day tour to see and learn about some of this architect's most famous projects, and boy was I excited! The tour meeting point was at the Camino Real Hotel in Polanco. Built by Barragan's most prolific disciple Daniel Legorreta, it is a fun bright, and sexy example of the style. The hotel’s Blue Bar is a great spot for a drink. For our tour, were in a small group of individuals from various countries, half who were architects, which offered the opportunity for interesting discussions on what we were seeing.
The tour taught us so much about Barragn that I have decided to separate that into its own blog. If keen to learn about this Mexican master, please read in detail here - https://docs.google.com/document/d/1UDiHEk0bmjJliFVP-v6kRET4tB1Crq7ITXsoBSzJhew/edit?usp=sharing
Our tour included three sites: Torres de Satelite, Cuadro San Cristobal, and Casa Pedregal. If you have only the time to see one of these, I might suggest Pedregal. A neighborhood the architect developed, and what is on strewn volcanic rock from a nearby eruption. The house was built for his attorney Prieto Lopez, but was eventually sold to its second and current owner a taqueria entrepreneur turned art collector who now runs the house and the attached Tetetlan restaurant that he opened. If you cannot get on a house tour, just going for a drive around Pedragal community, then having lunch at this most fascinating restaurant is a great outing. Part of the restaurant space are some gallery rooms, a cool crafts shop, and you can marvel at the dining room floor made of glass acting as a raised foundation over the black lava rock.
Tetetlan Restaurant in Pedregal
For our last dinner of the trip, Deanna reserved what she considered the most sought-after reservation in town.
Maximo - https://maps.app.goo.gl/wp6SQdbu5dG3yhrp9
It is located in Roma Norte, where we were staying and by now had started to know our way around pretty good. (Its a grid, making it easy.) Unlike Rosetta, Maximo only accepts reservations, so the front door was void of people milling about accosting a host. If you rate a restaurant by all the things that go into the experience: atmosphere, service, food, and design, then here you will find a place that has it all.
Along the entry is the kitchen, which you pass heading down a hallway before you reach the dining room. All are under the same warehouse-height ceiling, for the space is made up of two brick walls with two exposed ducts and enclosed by a high glass atrium-esque roof that has been added over what was once maybe an alleyway. Seated in the very back, we had a view of the entire place. With two-foot-tall dripping candles on each table, draping grey-toned canvases adorning the off-white masonry walls, and warmly stained oak for tables and door opening they achieved a stunning blend of an industrial and cottage. Friendly and non-pretentious, the floor is a roster of waitstaff in aprons, who you could mistake as bus boys, and then dark-suited "pit boss" type floaters who constantly walked the two lanes pitching in and ensuring all was running well.
We ordered Caesar salad, a bowl of ceviche, risotto, and pesto pasta. As it is customary in Mexico City to bring some accouterments, they also did: a plate of blue corn tostada chips with a heavenly whipped avocado spread and tangy tomato salsa—so simple yet so tasty. Plus, the chef served us an amuse bouche: a ramekin of refried bean dip made with goat cheese and eggplant—the kind of thing you would hear someone claim they could live off of.
First out was the ceviche properly served in a bowl containing all the tasty juice—aka "Tigre de Leche". A spicy kick made digestible by the thinly sliced radish. Caesar was in wedge format and not as special as the rest. For mains my risotto was rich and parmesan cheese flavored made even more umami-like by the truffle shavings on top. Deanna’s pesto pasta was a bright green with a smooth less paste-like structure then topped with a generous dollop of oxtail ragu. Perhaps it was the two weeks of Latin American food, but the Italian flavors so simply done, really hit the spot and coupled with the great service made Maximos our favorite meal in CDMX.
Maximo Restaurant in Roma Norte
Rating - 5 out of 5
Day Five CDMX -
For our final day, we started with what had become a ritualized morning routine that included me getting up early to drink tea and writing in the lobby, followed by us going out to try a different cafe. Then, as we had done two days ago, we headed to Yoga.
With only three hours to spare before leaving for the airport, we choose two art museums in Polanco. Across from one another and both free to enter, the Jumex is hard not to mistake as a Richard Meier building; just like the Getty in Los Angeles, it is clad in off-white travertine. Small but fun exhibits, our favorite was large canvases by a Colombian artist who uses charcoal to paint forests and added in embroidered birds. I also saw (well, listened really) to a very cool stereo built from regurgitated sugar eaten by ants and playing hardcore house. Next, we walked across the street to the Museo Soumaya. Five levels packed with works by Ronin, great Impressionist painters, and Renaissance classics, this place I could come to every day for a year straight to truly take it all in. But with only an hour, we started at the top of the Guggenheim-shaped museum and wound our way down, peaking at the grand collection of masters. A perfect last day in this mega-metropolis that Mexico City is.
So after 16 days, four countries, a couple rental cars, so many memorable meals, sights and conversations our trip came to an end. It’s hard to choose the best part, as the three separate facets were all so different from the other. I returned home curious what Nicaragua could be like in ten years from now. Maybe more touristy or the surf more crowded. And can Costa Rica maintain the charm, as it continues to get more and more popular. As for Mexico City, what will become the locales resistance to all the others who looked just like us, having extended stays and driving up the cost of living there. These questions are part of the globalization conversation, which because the world’s accessibility we can travel much easier, but as travelers are changing the face of our planet. But for the moment I am left simply feeling grateful. And with our memories, a snap shot in time, and a reminder that the more we see, or read or learn, the more we realize there is so much more out there.