My Takeaways from Trip to Thailand
It had been a while since I took a big trip, and this one to Thailand was a great reminder of just how much I love to travel. How the change of pace and surroundings shift your mindset. The meeting new people. Seeing unique architecture. Getting exposed to different customs, mentalities and ways of living are all refreshing. Never mind the simple joys of any vacation, such as the comforts of a great hotel, or amazing food, and the sites you marvel at, all which serve to inspire.
For me this trip has set a new focus in my life, one which I want to be filled with more of this. Like a book, you read one, and then from that realize there are so many more you must now open. So below, I invite you to turn a few pages of this book…on My Takeaways from my Trip Thailand.
Below, I am sharing what I worked out as best places when in Thailand for just two weeks. It did at times feel daunting, with so much I'd been told you can do and places to visit, and all I was reading in the Lonely Planet book I brought. So I am hoping that what I discovered may be bits you can pull from on your trip.
My itinerary was unique, as I chose not to head south to the most popular beach destinations. Opted for three nights total in Bangkok, the north, and central Thailand. The central part totaled near a week, and was in and around Korat where my fellow traveller was from. That time provided me a local experience, not seeing one Farang (European/white) for those six days. But did each day stare up to a mountain top, giant two-story tall Buddha. The Buddha became a great destination to hike to after some delicious morning coffee—served up out of the owners home/cafe kiosk.
Buddha looking over harvested paddy’s (*not the giant two-story tall one)
Bangkok
(I’ll get to more on Korat later) But on to the wondrous Bangkok! Stayed at Mandarin Oriental, which for me was the splurge of the trip. Affording myself that for just two nights, at one of the oldest and finest hotels in Bangkok, was an experience worth while. The decor is of rattan wood/wicker oriental style. With bright whites and soft green tropical colors.
On the river with shuttle boats to take you to and from their heavenly spa & gym. The Spa is like no other experience. Rooms are almost like small hotel suites with a your own shower & lounge. Massage mattress is a firm thick heavy pad on the ground—no tables. Warrior massage is traditional Thai stretching style—no oil. That is in fact a proper Thai Massage. Not the soothing, ambient environment we associate with in the west, but a hard pounding while laid out on the floor. But here at the Oriental, they even made that elegant and peaceful.
Hotel suites are serviced by a dedicated butler to that floor. Tends to most anything you would need. (Examples I needed were clothes washed and shoes dirty from hikes made clean.) It’s at your fingertips, literally with a bedside button in your room to call. View down the river is flanked by evening lit skyscrapers. The hotel Concierge is great to find guides and book your Bangkok tours, or even tours for other parts of Thailand. You're on the river, so can go up and across it to famous sites. Additionally the river Chao Phraya I thought also feels a bit removed from the congestion of such a bustling city. If you, like us, want to enjoy the hotel a bit more, you have the Bamboo Bar their famous jazz lounge, and also an incredible breakfast buffet—now served out on the hotel's water front terrace, which is grand and delicious. For remarkable kindness, service, and tradition look to the Oriental.
Mandarin Oriental shuttle boat
A fun night out and to take in the vastness of such a skyline metropolis, check out Vertigo Rooftop Restaurant. Incredible jetliner views for dinner. Not bad, but not special food.
Half Day/Important Tour:
This must half day tour you can a see collection of fascinating buildings, painted walls, and Buddhas. Royal Palace with a collection of religious monuments (near to Mandarin Oriental). This is the Buckingham Palace of Bangkok. Was original home of royals when Bangkok formed in 1782. Consists of three parts: Wat Phra Kaew that has the most sacred Thai Buddha called The Emerald Buddha (look out for what seasonal costume of gold its wearing), the National offices (wild hybrid of colonial and Chinese architecture all in one homogenous structure), and the old Royal residences (that cannot be seen).
Across street is Wat Po - Temple of the Reclining Buddha (a short Tuk Tuk or walk to get to Wat Po):
The Thai Traditional Medical School/Massage Treatment Center instituted by Government is there. An air conditioned oasis you step into and are hit by menthol smell of tiger balm (very refreshing while out on long day of touring in heat.) Open for service—about $10 USD for an hour massage from incredible healers. Government not wanting to see skills and trades dissipate over time, set up such schools.
Outside are Yogi/Hindu sculptures set around waterfalls and greenery that depict the root of Thai massage. A light bulb went off for me to see the relation here. Like read about and seen elsewhere, the Indian influence—Siam's first trading partner—is also realized here in the merging of India’s Hindu stretching yoga, adapted by Thai culture and continued in their massage therapy—traditionally called Ruesi Datton. (Look for small kiosk/pavilion with poster of the 89 postures, which are familiar from a yoga routine, and you'll see what triggered this for me.) Then also the mounds of sculptures posed in such yoga positions, and what Thai Masseuses can achieve for you while at work.
Wat Po sculptures showing yoga/massage postures
For lunch on the Royal Palace tour day, which has amazing food and decor: The Deck Amorosa, located at the Arun Residence. Views across the river to the beautiful Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn) named so, for a king who had fled and drifted all night to wake at dawn in front of this Temple. Just enjoyed looking at it, as didn't make it across Chao Phraya to visit, until our final day.
Custom Suit places you likely have heard are many in Bangkok. I tried “Victor Custom Tailor’s”. A few minute walk from Mandarin Oriental at: 1311 Charoen Krung Rd. There are many places to get a tailored suit around town, so you may just need to pick what looks good and is convenient for you. Across street from Victor’s a shop has prices that were near double. Important to decide if you want to spend more on the light summer wool, or a poly blend. My blend was just 7,000 baht (about $225).
Sam Pheng - night market next to Chinatown could be fun walk around one evening. We did this after snacks, beers and jazz back at the Bamboo Bar. I liked Chinatown better by daytime. Great place to shop for gold and get the flavor of a dense neighborhood. At night time loads of street food, but was not appealing to me.
North - Chiang Mai
These four nights up in the north of Thailand became my overall favorite stay of the whole trip. Compared to Bangkok, Chiang Mai is a smaller city with more laid back attitudes, universities, and an abundance of outdoorsy-day trips just outside of it. Extremely walkable, with the old city squared in by a moat-like river and remaining sections of 600 year old fortification walls. Just 10 minutes to drive in from the airport, I was in awe of how charming and pleasant this city looked as we drove in along side these river runs.
We stayed just a 10/15 minute walk outside of the old city to the east, at Rarinjinda Wellness Spa Resort, which had a parking lot, as rented a car while visiting the north I found to be the way to go. Each day your out of town in the lush mountains hillside having adventures, and those can easily be had just on your own using your GPS—no guide required. The old city hotels, though very charming and more affordable, have no on-site parking, then of course your thronged in by other tourists if staying there. Also the area to the east is itself along the larger Mae Ping river and so the dining and waking along there was more pleasant then the more densely-filled old city with no real river breezes.
Deck One restaurant in Chiang Mai
A Perfect Day while Staying Chiang Mai
Doi Suthep The temple w 300 hundred serpent-lined steps, which we elected to hike to. Really enjoyed starting at the mountain side, more aged and weathered looking Wat Pha Lat. From town that’s maybe 15 min drive. Park here, then ask a monk where trial is to hike up to Wat Doi Suthep. It’s a moist—in winter—just slightly humid, jungle walk. The trail is found alongside the waterfall stream and up on the right side of it. But know that after about 10 minutes you come up to the road. Cross it and you’ll see where the trail begins again. That point on it’s a more defined trail and the grade is quite moderate and steady all the way to the top. (Part of the Buddhist culture is the pilgrimage to wats, so if you have it in you, the hike makes for a real experience.)
-Link describes where to find the trail from town, but that adds an extra hour, I found it nicer to start from Wat Pha Lat:
To solidify the perfect day, after the morning hike and Wat visits, head about 40 KM east to the Hot Springs at San Kamphaeng.
Was major highlight of the trip for me. The sulphuric springs are out in the country, a lush and hilly drive nice in itself. For a couple hundred baht per hour you get a private casita, with a firm-mattress bed to cool off on after soaking in your own tub. Like a small jacuzzi, you can quickly fill it, and tailor the temp to be as hot as you like. The casitas are set into a wooded serene area. After the tub, crank the fan and with the windows open you can literally feel yourself floating towards—for me—what felt like to be near heaven.
A perfect day with a morning sweaty hike, some beautiful old temples, then nurturing your body. And then of course ending back in Chiang Mai with a sensational meal—that like everywhere in Thailand—is hard to miss.
A fun and more special place to eat in Chiang Mai is “Service 1921”. The once British Consulate, it has drawn on that theme of the intelligence & gentlemen’s library, which they’ve decorated the original colonial-era estate accordingly with old passports, an interrogation room, and spy accessories hung on the walls. Set in back of an architecturally cool woody/modern and dimly lit with pools hotel. Menu is Chinese fusion and has received a Michelin-guide write up. Lots of choices on menu.
While in Chiang Mai, I’ve never seen so many cool coffee houses in one place. Literally a couple on every block. The coffee grown and served in Thailand I found much easier on the stomach, and so even as a non-coffee drinker I really liked it.
Same for Thai Massage shops, never have I seen so many. In Thailand now there are two types of massage: the original mat on the ground (mentioned earlier) with the Masseuse going deep and hard on you. Or now the more Western spa-type experience, which is the more modern spa style in a tranquil setting—more smooth massage experience—now also readily available in Thailand. The OG is more often in a room that has other masseuses working next to yours, perhaps divided by just a curtain. Think very deep tissue, more of a stretching/sports massage.
Chiang Mai is a perfect little city. A walker’s heaven, as it’s small enough to do just that, but big enough to not tire of the sites and streets to keep exploring. The architecture I found quite interesting. It seems to be the birthplace of exterior building cladding, as a way to shield busy streets from apartment windows. The warm tropical climate has allowed this mid 20th century architecture to preserve fairly well with its soft pastel pinks and greens and oranges. Each afternoon at around happy hour time to take a walk and get lost a bit just to gaze at the decayed but still functioning store fronts and buildings was plenty of fun to me. If I ever were to take a month sort of sabbatical and want to learn the language or culture more, this is the city to do it.
Another of the day trips out of Chiang Mai is driving 1.5 hours to Doi Inthanon National Park. Thailand's highest mountain is popular to see stunning waterfalls and glimpse at some local village life. There are hikes when near the peak—on par with those in Southern California in terms of altitude—but be prepared to wait to do this, and needing to go with a “guide”. Felt silly to me, so after waiting amongst a bunch of families with little kids to be escorted up the trail, we opted to ditch this.
Up north outside of Chiang Mai are where all the elephant parks are. We went to “Hug Chang”. You receive a fresh cotton pajama-like outfit, so you can engage and clean the changs (elephants) and not ruin your clothes. Showers and lockers are there for you to use before leaving. This is an example of how the Thai people are fastidious about cleanliness. I had read of it, but really got it by seeing firsthand here how they provided the day uniforms & showers, where at a similar facility in the U.S. I know the only comfort they'd provide are instructions to bring a change of clothes for you to wiggle into before your drive back home. For about 1,200 baht you receive a class, then a play with the baby (which there was one then), a feeding, then a river bathing you get to give the 3,000 pound Asian giants. I chose to swim in the river after.
If you desire off beaten path - Korat:
Check out the magnificent Phanom Rung Hindu Khemer Temple ruin and it's nearby other Khemer ruin that is the Prasat Maung Tam.
Khemer Temple
Maybe while in the Nakhon Ratchasima province maybe you will search for the giant mountain top Buddha I fell for.
Local grilled fresh Talapia covered in salt, at road-side eatery is a must. And if not yet found a green papaya salad, here is where I got mine for first time. Oh, and somewhere out there had best coconut Tom Kha soup ever. Maybe just two days you will find this area worth while—or just one overnight with the three hours drive from Bangkok and seeing the Khemer temples, and some food stops on way in/out.
Last Day in Bangkok
Leaving back from Korat in order to get our flight out of Bangkok home early the next morning, we departed at 7am. As always when on the road in Thailand, there are endless food and shopping spots, with most gas stations being a sort of plaza of shops and cafes. It's a fun part of life for the Thais while making commutes, wandering these retail-rest stops.
Checked in at one of many hotels offering discounts in Sukhumvit (the busier tourist area with many high rises—more convenient for airport access.) Got a modern room, very well designed at Ma Du Zi Hotel for $100. Boutique size and feel, with an architectural-Asian style. Glad I shopped for this.
Starting out maybe just after 1pm, had limited time to see some cool stuff before a dinner reservation along the Chao Phraya River at 7:30pm. Taxi'd first to what was one of best sites on whole trip. The Jim Thompson House. This American Thai Silk magnet, came after serving in WWll, and turned a disappearing artisan trade of silk weaving into a global export industry for Thailand. His house built in centuries-old Thai style, holds a vast collection of wild & amazing artifacts including Buddhas, Bencharong (five colors) Royal Dinning China, and Mural painting—all centuries old. This six structure compound along the river that he also manufactured the silks in, is now a museum. The site’s restaurant is great spot next to a pond, while waiting for your guided tour (about 30 mins long). I shopped for a pocket square and scarf gift in the shop that is all Jim Thompson accessories. I even bought and have torn through his Biography, made fascinating not only for his business & collecting achievements, but for fact he went missing while in Malaysia in 1967—never to be seen again.
Second stop was quick peak at the Old Customs house—but it's under wraps as is slowly getting converted to a grand hotel. Its next to Mandarin Oriental, and will undoubtedly become the next best restoration in town. From the public river dock—adjacent to the Oriental's private dock—tired waiting for the public transit boat up the river to reach War Arun (talked about earlier as the Temple of Rising Sun), we opted for a private Gondolier’s offer to ride us up the river. Glad we did, as this “long boat” was so fun! Powered by a 50/60's old Japanese truck engine, the vessel races up the wide river dodging the large shipping & tour cruises, to wherever you want to go.
Ride up Chao Phraya river looking at Wat Arun
We just made the Wat Arun at 5:30pm, thirty minutes before closing. Good time to see these more Hindu-inspired Stupas with a setting sunlight. Just a marvelous site to stare at. Then flagged our now private boatsman to come to shore, who then ferried us to dinner quite a bit further up river, and just before the Rama (king) Vlll bridge, which at night to dine out in front of was magnificent. It’s an upper tension cable supported structure, with band support spanning the river all lit up in gold. The restaurant Hiranyakul, I highly recommend, which is in a hotel. Guess when it was built? Tables are right on river front, and is off the beaten path, with amazing food.
Rama (King) Vlll Bridge
"Pro Tip"
It was our Royal Palace and Wat Pho day tour guide (Boi, and boy was she amazing—can alway make intro if you should want) who suggested that restaurant. And to that, I would encourage you to hire guides for these certain days when you are seeing the major historical sites. Not only will they load you up with back story, history and context on what our looking at, but can do what we did to find Hiranyakul, when I hit them back up on WhatsApp for places to eat, shop or other suggestions later on the trip.
Wardrobe suggestions
New Balance 990 kicks (super comfy, with more chunky sole good for hiking, yet a little fashionable), flat fashion walking shoe (easy to pack, and perfect option when out to nicer dinner.)
Best weather was in Dec. Mainly good in T shirts—or even long sleeve T shirts I found very useful. Patagonia better sweater or hoodies. Long sweat work out pants were a must for lounging around hotel rooms, hiking, or sneaking work outs in when hotel had fitness centers (Oriental's was well worth one less drink night before to wake up and make it to the gym.)
Things I didn’t get to:
It has been the official winter palace for the Thai royal family since 1961, and you can wander the flower and butterfly-filled grounds when the royals are not in attendance (note the strict dress code: no exposed calves, knees, thighs, shoulders or cleavage).
Wat Phra Singh is Chiang Mai’s largest and grandest monastery:
Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, Ayutthya District
-Really old and crumbling super cool looking
...and so many more! Hope to get back again soon.